Unit finishes

Important: do not use abrasive cleaners on any surface in your unit.

Recommended Care and Maintenance:

• Use mild dishwashing detergent.

• Rinse thoroughly with clean water.

• Buff with a soft, dry cloth.

Daily Maintenance:

• Dust with a clean non-oily dust mop of size suitable to floor area.

• Remove dust particles from mop frequently by vacuum.

• Remove any wet spillage immediately by damp mopping.

Periodic Maintenance:

• Mop the surface with a detergent or neutral type cleaner solution.

• Agitate with floor machine and scrubbing brush attachment or wet mop.

• Remove dirty cleaning solution from floor with wet vacuum or damp mop. Then damp mop with clear, warm water.

• Let floor dry before allowing traffic.

Granite is an organic substance and just as no two people are exactly alike, so no two samples of granite will be either. The composition of minerals and the deposit from which it was quarried all play a part in the appearance of the granite.

Scratching and staining on granite surfaces are rare because of the hardness of the material, but you can scratch the polish.

Clean your countertop with a mild dishwashing detergent and a clean cloth.

• DO clean stone surfaces with a mild dishwashing detergent and warm water and use a clean rag for best results.

• DO use coasters under glasses, especially if they contain alcohol or citrus juices.

• DO place a small rug or mat at entryways to trap dirt and sand from normal foot traffic.

• DO dust countertops, islands, vanities, and floors frequently.

• DO blot up spills immediately to minimize permanent damage to the stone.

• DON'T use vinegar, bleach, ammonia, or other general-purpose cleaners.

• DON'T use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners, or tub & tile cleaners.

Marble is an extremely versatile material that is prized for its beauty and durability on many different surfaces. It does however require a modest amount of care to protect it against staining, scratching and loss of surface polish.

The best way to maintain the appearance of any marble surface is to wash it frequently and to immediately rinse off any spilled materials. Marble should be cleaned periodically with non-fat mild detergent and lukewarm water, rinsed generously with clean water and wiped with clean clothes to make certain no residue remains. Abrasive cleaners should not be used on polished marble as scratched and dull areas will result.

Some marble surfaces can be protected from dirt and soil marks by applying white or non-yellowing wax or sealer. There are a variety of materials available and a stone dealer could suggest one.

Wax is not normally used on floors or food preparation surfaces as it may make floors slippery and possibly causes food contamination. Sealers may be used for floors but may cause slight darkening of white marble. When in doubt, make a trial application in an inconspicuous area.

Methods- if normal cleaning does not remove discolouration, or of staining is deep seated, a poultice application is recommended – consult with an expert before following these steps.

Poultice- (Basic Method for Stain Removal). A poultice is made with powdered whiting and hydrogen peroxide (hair bleach) or a chemical reducing agent, depending on the nature of the stain. Whiting is sold in most paint stores. The poultice should be applied as described for each particular stain removal.

Organic stains are caused by tea, coffee, ink, tobacco, soft drinks, fruit juices, iodine, flowers and colours from paper and some textiles. The stain usually takes the shape of the object that caused it and is often irregular in shape. The following steps should be taken to remove organic stains.

1. Mix a poultice consisting of whiting and 20% hydrogen peroxide to form a thick paste.

2. Apply a 1/2" thick layer of this mixture over the stain.

3. To keep the poultice from drying too rapidly, cover the poultice with a piece of plastic kitchen wrap, held in place with masking tape.

4. Leave this in place overnight for stubborn stains, and for as much as 48 hours as required.

5. If after the first application, the stain is still noticeable, repeat the application, or add a few drops of household ammonia to the poultice mixture just before covering it with plastic wrap.

6. After the stain disappears, remove the application, rinse with warm water and wipe dry.

Oil stains are caused by such substances as butter, cream, milk, peanut butter, hand lotions, mustard and other substances with fatty or greasy ingredients. The stains are usually circular and are often darker in the centres. They are often quite difficult to remove because they tend to penetrate deeper than most other stains.

The first step is always to remove the source of the stain.

1. Wash the surface with ammonia. Then rinse with plenty of clean, lukewarm water. If this lightens the stain, repeat until the stain is completely gone. If the stain still appears, continue with the following steps.

2. Treat the stain with a poultice mix of acetone and whiting to form a thick paste.

3. Apply a 1/2" thick layer of this mixture over the stained area.

4. To keep the acetone from evaporating and the poultice form drying too rapidly, cover the poultice with a piece of plastic kitchen wrap, held in place with masking tape.

5. Leave the application in place overnight (for stubborn stains leave on longer, as much as 48 hours may be required).

6. Remove the poultice and rub the marble with a dry cloth. If stain remains, repeat the application.

Metallic objects in the presence of moisture invariably cause rust stains. Rust stains are usually coloured orange to brown and take the shape of the object that caused them. If these stains are noticed promptly, they can sometimes be removed simply by rubbing hard with a dry cloth, especially is the surface has been waxed. If the stain doesn't come off, proceed with the following treatment:

1. Make a poultice of commercial liquid rust remover mixed with whiting to form a thick paste.

2. Apply a thick layer of this mixture over the stained area.

3. Place a piece of plastic kitchen wrap over the mixture, and secure in place.

4. Leave the application on overnight.

5. Leave the poultice mixture and rub the marble surface with a dry cloth.

Many substances will not only discolour marble but cause a loss of luster and may slightly etch the surface. To correct this, you must first remove the stain as described above, and then polish the surface. Polishing may also be necessary after you use one of the various poultices described in the previous steps.

• Use a special polishing powder tin oxide (available from many stone dealers).

• Wet the marble surface well.

• Sprinkle the polishing powder over the surface, and then rub firmly and vigorously with a cloth pad.

• A considerable amount of hard rubbing may be required. Therefore, a buffing pad of the type used with an electric drill, may be employed.

• Buffing should be continued until the etch marks disappear and the surface shines as it originally did.

• Rinse with clean water and buff dry.

NOTE: If a large area requires re-polishing, it should not be attempted by hand. Consult your local stone dealer.

• Loss of Shine: The loss of the high polish on certain marble and granite can be attributed to wear. This is especially true of marble, since it is much softer than granite. The bottoms of one's shoe acts like sandpaper on a stone floor surface and over time will wear the polish off. To prevent excessive wear, it is important to keep the floor mopped. It is recommended to place walk off mats at all entrances. To repair a worn stone surface, it will be necessary to have a professional hone or polish it.

• Etching: The dull spot created when liquids containing acids are spilled on marble is called etching. Marble and limestone etch very easily. Serpentine and granite is more acid-resistant and will rarely etch. To prevent etching, avoid using cleaners and chemicals that contain acids. Bathroom cleaners, toilet bowl cleaners, and lemon cleaners commonly contain acids. Certain drinks and foods containing acids will cause etching. Light etching can be removed with a little marble polishing powder. Deep etching will require resurfacing of the stone.

• Staining: All stone surfaces can become stained very easily. Most foods, drinks, ink, oil and rust will stain marble. Once a stone becomes stained, it can be very difficult to remove. To prevent staining, clean the spilled material immediately. Blot the spot with a clean paper towel or cloth. If this does not remove the stain, then a process called "poulticing" may be needed. To prevent staining, sealing the stone with a good quality penetrating sealer is important and recommended every six months.

• Efflorescence: Efflorescence appears as a white powder residue on the surface of the stone. It is a common condition on new stone installations or when stone is exposed to a large quantity of water, such as flooding. This powder is a mineral salt, from the setting bed. To remove efflorescence, do not use water. Buff the stone with a clean polishing pad or steel wool pad. The stone will continue to efflorescence until it is completely dry. This drying process may take from several days to as long as one year.

• Spalling: Flaking & Pitting -If your stone is developing small pits or pieces of stone are popping off the surface (spalling) then you have a problem. This is condition is common on stone exposed to large amounts of water or when de-icing salts are used for ice removal. Like efflorescence, mineral salts are the cause for spalling and pitting. Instead of the salts depositing on the surface (efflorescence), they deposit below the surface of the stone, causing pressure within the stone and therefore the stone spalls, flakes or pits. Unfortunately, once it begins to spall it’s almost impossible to repair. It is recommended that the stone be replaced.

• Yellowing: There are several reasons why a stone will turn yellow. Embedded dirt and grime can give the stone a yellow, dingy look. Waxes and other coatings can yellow with age. Certain stones will naturally yellow with age. This is caused by oxidation of iron within the stone and is especially problematic with white marbles. If the yellowing is caused by dirt or build-up, clean the stone with an alkaline cleaner or wax stripper. If the yellowing is a result of aged stone or oxidization, it may never be removed.

All hardwood floors installed have a polyurethane-type finish and the following details preventive maintenance and cleaning of these floors.

• Preventive maintenance is a term more common to industry than to residential or office floor care, but its importance cannot be over-emphasized. Listed below are some basic rules that apply to all types of finishes.

• Certain chemicals in wood oxidize in strong light causing the wood to change color ('weather" or 'age'); i.e., develop a 'patina.' To avoid uneven appearance, move area rugs occasionally and drape or shade large windows.

• Put fabric-faced glides on the legs of your furniture. They allow furniture to be moved easily without scuffing the floor. Clean the glides regularly since dirt can become embedded in them. Some furniture may require barrel-type roller casters, as ball-type casters may cause damage. Grey, non-marking rubber casters are best. Avoid any type of plastic caster.

• Never damp mop a finished wood floor. There are some finishes that can be damp mopped which will be explained under surface finishes. But in all cases use minimum water because water causes deterioration of the wood itself as well as the finish.

• Wipe up food and other spills immediately, using a dampened- not wet- cloth if necessary. Then wipe the flooring dry with another cloth or paper towel.

• Do not wax your floors.

By observing these simple suggestions, you will go a long way towards keeping your hardwood floors beautiful and well-cared-for.

• For general cleaning, add 1/4 cup (60mL) white vinegar to 1 quart (1L) of warm water. Dip a clean cloth or sponge mop and wring nearly dry. Clean floor and wipe dry with a towel as you go.

• Buff to restore lustre.

• When lustre does not return in traffic areas such as doorways, kitchen sink, stove area, or hallways, the floor may require re-coating. Consult your wood floor contractor, or you may attempt to extend the life of your finish in worn areas with an application of compatible aerosol finish.

• Never wax a surface finish. Wax will in most cases be slippery and once waxed, the floor will not be able to be merely re-coated to rejuvenate it but will have to be completely sanded down to raw wood to restore the floor.

Because of their light colour, these floors, like white carpet or vinyl, are more susceptible to showing the effect of dirt and traffic than those with natural or dark-stained finishes. Therefore, they need and deserve more attention than others. Vacuum or sweep often. Wipe off liquid spills immediately. Follow the maintenance procedures recommended for the type of finish used.

Something else you'll probably notice with such finishes is a tiny separation between the flooring strips during dry seasons or long heating periods. The amount of moisture in the air causes wood to expand or contract. When humidity levels are low, the flooring will contract, and the separations become more prominent than at other times. The contrast of a white floor surface causes even tiny separations to appear larger. However, this is a natural characteristic of wood and will occur each heating season. Depending on the type of finish used (factory or on- the-job), the light-tinted or white floors may have some standing changes over time.

For surface finishes most stains can be prevented simply by wiping up the spilled liquid immediately.

As a natural wood product, hardwood floors will expand and contract with variations in temperature and humidity. No hardwood floor will be 100% squeak-free. However, maintaining proper humidity levels will greatly reduce the occurrence of squeaking. Excessive separation and cupping due to your failure to maintain proper humidity levels is not covered by any warranty.

This product is not real hardwood but is being used increasingly to obtain the look and feel of a hardwood floor. Laminate flooring is the newest entry in the flooring business. It is usually made from medium or high-density fiberboard (fine grain particleboard) with a photo reproduction of hardwood or other material covered by a tough plastic top layer. These floors offer excellent scratch and wear resistance but are not, contrary to many people's conceptions, indestructible.

Maintenance:

• Sweep, dust and mop, or vacuum daily using an appropriate soft bristle attachment to remove loose dirt and grit before it can scratch the surface of the floor.

• Thoroughly clean the kitchen area more often than other areas.

• While most food spill will not harm the surface, it is advisable to promptly wipe up with a dry cloth or paper towels. The spill should then be cleaned with a recommended cleaner, preferable SQUEAKY CLEAN.

• Never clean your wood laminate with water. Never use products such as soaps, detergents, and oil soaps to clean your floor.

• Only use products recommended by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer is       not known, a general hardwood floor cleaner (SQUEAKY CLEAN) can be used.

• Place area rugs or mats at doorways and in front of the kitchen sink to help catch dirt, grit, and water. Never use rubber or plastic backing as it may damage the floor. Solid cotton is highly recommended.

• Never use sheet vinyl or tile floor care products on your floors.

• Spike heels, cleats, and work shoes can damage wood floors.

• Humidity control is highly recommended. To reduce excessive shrinkage in the winter a humidifier is recommended and air conditioning or a dehumidifier for the summer.

• To move furniture properly across a wood floor it should be picked up. Do not drag it under a carpet. This creates small scratches across the finish.

• Narrow guides and certain types of casters can damage the floor. It is recommended that you change to wide type guides to help prevent damage.

• Fabric protectors are a must for all furniture legs. This will help prevent scratching.

• We are not responsible for discoloration of the floor due to direct sunlight. The warranty does not cover damage from high heels, pets, spills, and furniture legs without adequate felt covers, nor for water damage or owner abuse.

When in doubt concerning the care of a wood floor, contact a professional flooring company.

Variations in the shading of some carpet are evident when the nap runs in different directions. The nap of the carpeting should run in the same direction in each room. It is acceptable for the nap to change direction at doorways. Light and white coloured carpeting may become discoloured at the walls and subfloor joints due to the filtering process that occurs with forced-air heating. There are a number of causes for this but it is generally caused by candle burning and pollution in both the interior and exterior air quality and is not covered under any warranty.

Cabinets constructed of wood are subject to normal variations in grain and colour. Such changes are found in nature and are not considered defects. Likewise, colour and grain of replacement parts may vary from the original installation. We are not responsible for fading of cabinetry materials due to exposure to sunlight. Damage from the use of inappropriate cleaning products, such as naphtha spray waxes and lemon oil, should be avoided.

Cabinet exteriors and interiors should be cleaned with a mild soap solution on a clean cloth and rinsed with clear water. Cabinets should be buffed dry with a soft clean cloth immediately after cleaning.

Cabinets should never be cleaned with harsh detergents, abrasive cleansers or steel wool pads.

Water should not be allowed to contact cabinet surfaces for more than a few minutes and steam from kettles etc. should be directed away from cabinet surfaces.